PLUTO
RETROGRADE

WHO ARE YOU?

Hi! I’m Mei Tran of Meplutoi. I am 19 years old, and I go to the Fashion Institute of Technology. I'm currently in my second year as a fashion design major. I have had my brand Meplutoi for almost a year now. It will turn a year old in around one month!


CAN YOU TALK ABOUT THE ORIGIN OF THE NAME MEPLUTOI?

The name came from a combination of my name and the dwarf planet Pluto. Pluto was deemed a dwarf planet by The International Astronomical Union (IAU) in 2006. I viewed this as Pluto being considered an outcast. I wanted to use Pluto as an example of how you shouldn’t be afraid of who you are, even if you are considered an outcast. Whether it's the way you dress or the way you express your personality, just be the rawest version of yourself! I encapsulated myself into the brand name by putting the word Pluto in between my name Mei, “M(Pluto)ei” [Pronounced “ME-PLU-TEE]. With Meplutoi, I want to present the most genuine version of myself.


WHERE DO YOU GET MOST OF YOUR INFLUENCE FROM?

I love Hyein Seo. She is genuinely one of my biggest inspirations — she is a South Korean fashion designer. In addition, Helit Emil, Comme des Garçons for all their darker collections, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, & the rest of the classics.

C: Do you have any influences that are not fashion design based? Like in a similar way to how Issey Miyake was inspired by Noguchi, who does interior design and architecture.

I travel a lot. Recently, I visited Thailand, and the overall atmosphere of the country and how it differs from America was really inspiring. For example, the architecture in Thailand has a rural but urban vibe to it. I see the architecture in Thailand as the intersection of two styles, organic nature reclaimed and rigid abstract industrial.
Asa Kim shot by Huy Duong

WALK US THROUGH THE PROCESS OF CREATING YOUR LAST COLLECTION: ERROR//X

I was in a depressive state when creating the concept of the Error X collection. I first thought of the collection when I returned home to California after studying in New York. I was having these repetitive thoughts of inadequacy. I would just doodle in my journal X’s over and over again.

E: The collection was kind of like a reflection of your mental state?

Yes, I would say that. Everything was an X — the symbol kept coming up over and over. Everything was an error and, as you can see in the collection, every garment in that collection follows the silhouette of an X. I was able to take feelings of inadequacy and convert them into a collection. Luckily, I am in a much better mental state now.


SO WE HEARD YOU ARE GOING THROUGH A REBRAND?

Well, it's not entirely a rebranding. The message behind the brand remains the same, but I'm taking different approaches to how I present my work. Instead of a collection dropping all the pieces in one day, I'm going to be releasing a Fall/Winter collection, where I will be releasing pieces throughout the season. It is going to consist of three all-new items. The releasing pattern of the items will start late September, and last until around February. This allows me to focus on each individual garment, giving me more time to truly perfect them. Also, my new logo which I designed is coming very soon. Some people may have seen the teaser I posted on Meplutoi’s Instagram.


WHAT DIRECTION ARE YOU TAKING THE BRAND?

I hope I can focus on sustainability. The piece I am currently working on is made of linen. Linen is environmentally recyclable. Using recycled or sustainable fabrics is a good start for me. With the fabric left over, I am thinking of releasing smaller pieces made out of it. Moving forward I want to implement sustainable efforts no matter what. I have also been looking into using dead-stock fabrics, so I can essentially give them a second life.


ARE THERE ANY INTERNAL CONFLICTS YOU HAVE ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY?

100%. Because whenever I make a pattern, I have to go through muslin, which is the original scrap fabric I use. Then I have to paste it on pattern paper if the muslin draft goes well. If not, I have to go through more muslin and redo it again. Through that whole process, I have doubts and thoughts about how I can better my production process. Possibly in the future, I can take a more technology-based approach.

E: It's good that you already have these ideas about your future. As a student, you don’t really make enough to be considered not sustainable. A lot of people around our age at FIT want to be sustainable but in terms of scale you making your cool art will not be a problem compared to H&M and ZARA. Still, it’s good you are keeping that in mind.


© Huy Duong

HOW MANY HAVE YOU SOLD SO FAR?

The first drop actually sold pretty well. I won’t say exactly how much I made, but it was a very successful drop.

C: How did this compare to your second drop?

With my last collection, I will be a bit more transparent and say that I did not sell as well. I think it was because the prices of the first collection were $20-35, which was honestly really difficult for me. The fabric prices cost half of what I was selling the garment for. With the amount of time, I was putting into each garment, it was hard to make the effort worth it for me. For the second collection, the cheapest item was $40, and the most expensive item was $50.


HOW OR WHY ARE YOUR GARMENTS SO CHEAP?

It is tough to price my garments. Especially with the age range and demographic, I am marketing towards, which is essentially college students. Not everyone is going to be able to buy a $50 shirt just to support me. My audience isn't that big: my main focus was to get my brand out there and have people wearing my pieces.

E: Actually that brings up a really good point that we wanted to talk about. Chris and I were both really surprised to see how cheap you were selling your items when we looked at your website about two days ago.

C: Exactly, for something hand-sewn, we felt that the prices you were charging were a bargain.

E: I mean I personally think the prices should go up, especially with the fact that you are just one person operating this brand. In addition, websites like Shopify take cuts out of your sales. All these different factors like materials, fees, taxes. and more just add up the operation costs.

C: It must be rough to put all this work into something, then have to slap $30 price tag on it.


HOW IS THAT AFFECTING YOU MENTALLY?

Honestly, it is kind of discouraging. However, as a creator, you can’t let stuff like that discourage you. You have to use that as motivation to keep wanting to improve. Luckily enough, I am at the point where I have made this pattern and put a lot of effort into this piece. Also, I have been planning an upcoming photo shoot for the drop with a friend. Due to these factors, I am pretty comfortable upping the price on my next pieces.

E: I am really glad that you are able to talk about the mental toll pricing your own art has. I believe every artist will have to go through this struggle of figuring out what feels fair for something you fundamentally dedicate your life to.

Yes, 100%. I remember during my first drop I was telling myself things like, “this would only sell for forty dollars” or “this would only sell for thirty dollars”.


Asa Kim shot by Huy Duong

WHAT MAKES MEPLUTOI DIFFERENT?

I think I am retaining a cohesive brand image through my consistent collaborators and dedication to my message. This is what separates me from other brands. I want people to see my work and be able to pick out as uniquely mine. Still, I do think I am on the same playing field as other student fashion brands. We are all students and no one of us is really above one another.


DESCRIBE MEPLUTOI’S STYLE

Simply put, very organic and nature-oriented. Many have called the style of the brand “organically reclaimed”. I want my pieces to look clean, while also retaining raw and technical pieces.

E: I mean, even just commenting on what you are wearing right now, that top reminds me of moss on a tree. Kinda like white moss on a tree.

Exactly! The raw fraying on this top was meant to mimic natural influences like that. This top is actually one of my earlier pieces, just something I made for myself without any connection to Meplutoi. But you can definitely still find similarities to my earlier work in my work today.



WHAT MAKES YOU EXCITED FOR THIS NEXT DROP?

I feel like I am releasing the most updated version of myself. I want this company or brand to just keep evolving and grow alongside myself. Each piece that I am planning on releasing with this upcoming drop will be very special and more advanced in a technical way. The style hasn’t exactly changed, but I have mastered my craft.

As of this interview releasing, Mei has already released her next drop! Make sure to go check it out at meplutoi.com.

CREDITS

SUBJECT/BRAND : MEI TRAN @meplutoi

PHOTO : E&C*, HUY DUONG @hduongptg

MODEL : MEI TRAN @meixtran, ASA KIM @as4kim

TEXT : E&C* @acediastudios